Day 4 - Completion of process from Bean to Bar!

Another day spent with the smart and wonderful associates at the Mars Centre for Cocoa Science (MCCS)!

In the morning we split in 4 groups – representing the main 4 research buckets the centre deals with – Microbiology, Genetics, Breeding  and Chemistry. In each group we spent some time understanding and practicing the subject matter to then present back to the rest of the group.

My group and I were chosen to learn more about Microbiology. Stefan (who heads up microbiology at the MCCS) was fantastic at taking us through his findings on fermentation. He helped us understand the importance fermentation has on the taste of the final cocoa liquor and eventually chocolate and therefore the importance of his experiments. In so doing he introduced us to the main 7 flavour profiles of chocolate – cocoa, floral, fruity, bitter, astringent, acidity and other – which it was fascinating to learn about. It felt like being back in science class for the day!

Understanding fermentation with Stefan - collecting samples

Analysing fermentation samples in the lab

We re-grouped with team who took us through all of their findings with their own subject matter experts. All in all we got to really understand what happens at the MCCS  - the fantastic research & experiments that are taking place as well as having the opportunity to ask the subject matter experts any questions we might have.

Cocoa genetics 101 

Rani learning about breeding 

Groups sharing back the science they have learnt

In the afternoon we completed the chocolate bean to bar cycle:

1) We collected the dried beans, weighed them and packaged them into large 60KG bags. This is a standard measure of weight that cocoa beans are bought in – which is the same of other types of agricultural crops like cereal, corn etc.

Collecting the beans and weighing them into 60Kg bags 

2) We then took the beans to roast. This is done at very high temperatures (exceeding 200 degrees Celsius) using hot air in oven type machinery for a short periods of time (around 15mins).

Beans are opened and checked they are fine before roasting

To roast!

3) Once the beans were roasted and de-shelled the cocoa nibs (which are in fact the inside of cocoa seeds which have been fermented, dried and roasted) are put to grind at high temperatures which in turn creates the cocoa liquor. Cocoa liquor contains everything in the cocoa nibs, but is often split between cocoa butter (the fat content) and cocoa powder. This is so that at the time of making the final chocolate one can vary the measures of each  product to adjust the chocolate according to taste, texture etc. We also had a taste of cocoa liquor (which is in fact what professional cocoa tasters taste to differentiate between different cocoa varities) which was quite different to chocolate. Much more intense flavour, more bitter and mostly more astringent.

4) To turn the cocoa liquor into chocolate we need to add milk (powdered milk), sugar, pectin (or similar) and usually vanilla extract or other flavours.

5) Once all of these ingredients are mixed in we are left with a liquid substance which we would now recognise as chocolate. However, before moulding we need to temper the chocolate. This process involves heating the liquid up and then making it cool to approx. 28 degree by moving it around a cold surface. This process helps the chocolate achieve a lower melting temperature when formed and also gives the finished chocolate the shiny finish we have learnt to expect from it.

Chocolate is poured on a clean cold surface for tempering

Chocolate tempered by moving it around the cold surface with two spatulas

Chocolate is cooled to approximately 28 degrees Celsius

6) Finished tempering the chocolate is then molded according the different shapes and sizes one wants create.

Chocolate placed into molds for cooling

7) This is left to cool in fridges after which it is tapped out of the mold and ready to be eaten!!

And there you have it! On Day 4 we had completed our chocolate journey learning and experiencing hands-on the process of making chocolate from bean to bar!

From bean to bar

Of course after this process were all keen to try a bit of our very own chocolate we had made…and it tasted delicious! We also put it on trays and distributed it amongst the MCCS associates who were at this point leaving to go home. Judging by the smiles they were really happy to receive this treat at the end of the work day :-)

Handing out our freshly made chocolate to MCCS associates

Day 3

Another cocao-fuelled day!!

Our day started  off at a local chocolate factory – Itacare’ Chocolates. Here, under the entrepreneurship of Diana (the owner), Itacare’ Chocolates is now one of the only sites in Bahia which harvests cocoa, processes it and makes chocolate.

Diana the owner of Itacare' Chocolates

The finished product

 MAP buddies

 Group photo outside the factory

It was fascinating to see the whole process happen under one roof. From picking cocoa pods from their farm fields to taking out the seeds, fermenting, drying, roasting, to de-shelling of the cocoa seeds, turning into liquor, mixing with cocoa butter, refining, tempering and finally molding. Bean to bar under one roof!

Cocoa pod juggling - harvesting

Drying

Processing

Mouding

Nothing of the cocoa pods is wasted. Diana’s facility also juiced the cocoa pulp found in the pods to make a delicious sweet and thick drink known as cocoa honey.

Cocoa honey drank the traditional way

Ready to sell cocoa honey

In the afternoon we had some 101 lessons with Stefan on cocoa breeding. Stefan and his team are working on some fantastic research with the aim of breeding cocoa plants which are more resistant to disease and more productive. Disease is a huge problem for cocoa farmers – in Brazil the most destructive being what is known as “witch’s broom”. Stefan’s research will eventually help farmers use types of cocoa which are better for them as well as beneficial to the chocolate industry.

Stefan

Diseased cocoa pods with "witch's broom" and black pod. This is huge challenge for farmers in Brazil

Breeding lessons 101

Stefan's greenhouse

We even tried our hand at manual pollination – one of the techniques used for cross-breeding cocoa.

Our very own pollination kits

Brad pollinating a tree

The Stuff of Cocoa Part 2 – Fermentation, drying, composting…and leaving our mark!

Another fantastic day at the Mars Centre for Cocoa Science (MCCS), all thanks to the resident MCCS team! Whilst, I have only been at the MCCS for 2 days, I already feel my understanding and appreciation of cocoa is light years away from a week ago. Today we learned all about and practiced the fermentation, drying and composting process' and also had the chance to leave our permanent mark at the MCCS :-)

The MAP Ambassadors Group with Sam & Wildson the MCCS cocoa experts

Fermentation. Following on from yesterday’s harvesting we put the cocoa beans to ferment in wooden square vats. These are left in these vats for a total of 5 days throughout which they are turned around and mixed to allow oxygen to mix with the beans and facilitate the fermentation process. I learned that the fermentation process is of utmost importance as it is only thanks this process which allows the beautiful cocoa notes to come through to our finished chocolate product.

 

Drying. Once the beans have been fermented they need to be dried for 5-7 days. At the MCCS these are spread out and dried on raised wooden platforms – which can be covered in case of rain (which is often all year round in Itabuna!). After 5-7 days the inside of the cocoa beans are black and start to have a chocolate-earthy taste.

 Joe and I carrying the fermented beans to dry

Ives & Rani emptying fermented beans on the drying floor

Composting. To help the plants grow quicker and also to prevent disease composting takes place. Think of compost as a super-earth which is made out of different plant matters found at the cocoa farm. Ours was made of grass, cocoa husks, Glysiride leaf, cabbage and manure. We stacked the different parts of the compost in layers in a pyramid shape after covering it with a banana leaf to help keep the rain away. After 60-90 days the compost will be only 40% of the weight and the compost will be ready for use on the cocoa farm (including using it for new seeds).

Our compost pyramid with Fadi the Egyptian architect!

Finally we went to visit the Barro Preto Project which has is being hosted on 11 different farms in Bahia. This project has the aim of increasing cocoa productivity and in so doing demonstrating to the farmers the potential and profitability of cocoa when done right – they are currently predominantly cattle farmers. As the balance between trees and cocoa plants per hectare is quite importance to maximixe cocoa productivity in an agroforestry system (land where both trees and cocoa trees are farmed), farmers often plot out the number of trees they have per hectare. Above 39 trees per hectare the farmers are allowed to cut some non-cocoa trees down to help their cocoa crop (more light of the cocoa plants). At the same time though agroforestry is useful in two ways: 1) It allows farmers to spread their risks (ie. due to fluctuating commodity prices) and 2) agroforestry is supported and incentivized by the local banks here.

Plotting & measuring the different trees on the farm

Group photo with Sam (left) and Wildson aka Mr Cacao due to his 34 years of experience in cacoa.

Finally – like all MAP groups to the MCCS – it was our turn to plant our cocoa plant also!! Each MAP Ambassador planted a cocoa plant and added a little name tag on it. In 1.5 years these small plants will be bearing fruits and co-operating to experiments at the MCCS.

Our very own cocoa plants - Tim 

Our very own cocoa plants - Ives

             Our very own cocoa plants - Me. May it long, healthy and productive life :-)

What a fantastic day it’s been and I am overjoyed that we too have contributed to the farm system at MCCS by planting a cocoa plant and continuing the Mars cocoa legacy.

The Stuff of Chocolate Part 1 - Substrate preparation, planting, grafting and harvesting

Wow - what a day it’s been!! And it’s only day 1…I cannot wait for the rest of the week!

Throughout this week at the Mars Centre for Cocoa Science we will be getting some first hand experience of the cocoa journey all the way from bean (or slightly before) to bar. During our first day we experience the first steps to this magical process…

1)      Substrate preparation To plant new cocoa seeds you need much more than mud! We made a mixture from natural earth (8 parts) and manure (2 parts) adding to this limestone, phosphorus, micronutrients and potassium.

 Substrate Preparation

2)      Filling planting bags. Once the substrate is prepared we filled small individual bags with it; each one will eventually house and help germinate a cocoa tree. Once filled we brought the bags and arranged them neatly in the plant nursery.

                                                               Filling in Planting Bags

Brad taking the planting bags to the nursery

3)      Planting pre-germinated seeds. To grow more cocoa trees we used existing cocoa varieties and re-plant the seeds enclosed in one of the pods hanging from its tree. A resistant cocoa breed pod was picked (in our case B1150), opened (with a small machete) and the pulp with the seeds were collected. Using some sawdust we were able to get rid of the stick moist pulp and left with the cocoa seeds. Using these seeds we made holes on the top of our planting bags (around 2cm deep) and drop the cocoa seed inside. 6-8 months later these little seeds will germinate and grow into small plants.

Opening of a cocoa pod

                             Using sawdust to get rid of the pulp and moisture

                                     Planting the seeds in the planting bags

4)      Grafting. Grafting is process by which a branch of a resistant cocoa breed is fixed to a cocoa plant so that the two over time become combined and the plant grows and takes on the characteristic of the stronger cocoa variety. The process of grafting is used to make cocoa plants more resistant to disease & pests and also to increase their productivity. There a 3 types of grafting – top grafting, side grafting and bud grafting. After a demonstration by Sam and Carlo we each top grafted a cocoa plant ourselves. A few months after the two plants become one and the plant is then ready to be taken out of the nursery and planted in a field, and after another 6-12 months will produce cocoa pods (12-18months after planting).

Shilin and Rany grafting their plants

        Tim, Fadi and I with our grafted plants

5)      Harvesting. Once the plants are grown, twice a year the cocoa pods are harvested from the trees. We spread ourselves out on a hill, part of the Mars Centre for Cocoa Science grounds, and started to harvest the pods. We cut the ripe pods (which are actually the cocoa plant’s fruit!) from the cocoa plant using gardening scissors and collected these with small forks and baskets. This process was very laborious as the cocoa pods themselves are actually deceivingly heavy…

Once we had picked and collected all the cocoa pods on our hill we set about opening them and taking out the seeds with the pulp – which is what will then be used to make chocolate.

                                                 Shilin picking pods off the cocao trees

Ives collecting the pods into a basket

The group at work extracting the seeds from the pods (in the rain!!)

At the end of the day we were incredibly proud of ourselves and had together collected about 90Kg of cocoa beans!!

90Kg of cocao beans

Stay tuned for the continuation of the cocoa making process (journey) in the next few days...